I am standing outside of “Hill’s”, a Gastown emporium that sells Cowichan-knit hats for $15, and totem poles for $15,000. It will ship rainbow-colored dream catchers or bent-wood boxes anywhere in the world. I can buy carved silver jewelry, Cowichan sweaters, moccasins, Susan Point prints, or Jim Charlie masks.  I am peering through the window, and the masks are staring back, when I hear a voice behind me. I hear singing. I hear drumming. I turn around. At least 300 First Nations people are walking up Water Street toward me. I can’t even see where this mass of people ends, they are still coming around the corner and up the street.